Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Air" Question about helmet mounted lights. If you fall on your head/helmet aren't you compromising the integrity of the helmet and making it less safe?
Nope, not really. At least mine isn't a permanent fixture, it uses velcro straps to go through your helmet venting, and has little rubber feet to stop it from sliding. It's also top-mounted, not front. I'm pretty sure it would break away in case of any real impact. And the only way it would be in the path of direct impact would be if I landed straight down on the top of my head.
Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Air"
Quoted from "mrz" You could use a whole bunch of AA's in a water bottle or "stick" like they do. That would probably be cheap. But a serious pain to recharge. Just think of all the AA chargers you'd have to plug in. Better might be an RC car 12V battery pack. The problem there is the cost. Hmm.
Damn - I have a few RC car batteries in my basement when I used to play with those with charger. Hmmm...
Ew, AA's wouldn't last very long. I've got Cs, and the head unit uses a PWM scheme to reduce the brightness for battery life. Also, those 12V lights can be overdriven safely, so getting extra cells to bring you up to 13.2V means that you'll be brighter, and even if voltage degrades you're still going to be over 12V.
Air: your battery packs: NiCd or NiMH? It might be worth considering if it's the latter.
Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Wombat"
Quoted from "Air" Question about helmet mounted lights. If you fall on your head/helmet aren't you compromising the integrity of the helmet and making it less safe?
Nope, not really. At least mine isn't a permanent fixture, it uses velcro straps to go through your helmet venting, and has little rubber feet to stop it from sliding. It's also top-mounted, not front. I'm pretty sure it would break away in case of any real impact. And the only way it would be in the path of direct impact would be if I landed straight down on the top of my head.
In an accident, I would think (depending on the light) that at the very least, glass or plastic flying in one's eyes or embedding in one's scalp would be an issue.
Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Thanks!
Quoted from "Wombat" Air: your battery packs: NiCd or NiMH? It might be worth considering if it's the latter.
I think NiCD but I'll have to go down and dig them up - I remember I had little LED resistors that I would hook them up to completely discharge them before charging. I like the idea of turning one of my water bottle holders into a huge battery pack even with C's or D's. Should be fairly water resistant too.
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "snazzyuserid"
In an accident, I would think (depending on the light) that at the very least, glass or plastic flying in one's eyes or embedding in one's scalp would be an issue.
Nope, not really. It would have to be quite an accident to get that debris headed towards your face (or vice versa). The directions are all wrong. I'd be more worried about hitting anything handlebar mounted with my face/body (as I've done).
Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Wombat"
Ew, AA's wouldn't last very long. I've got Cs,
I thought the benefit of C's and D's was higher amperage but I've noticed that rechargeable C's and D's don't have the same mAh as AA's. I think it's because AA's are in more use than C's and D's...but maybe I'm just not looking at the right suppliers.
I think the guy was using a whole whack of AA's because he could get a huge bulk pack of them cheaply at Home Depot.
If you're willing to be more creative about your battery sources, I think it's possible to put together a more convenient/longer lasting setup. Some folks were using battery packs from power tools. Those are often just packs of large capacity batteries in a case.
Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Wombat"
I swear by slime-filled tubes. A little heavier, sure, but have saved me lots of trouble and stranding.
Heh. Whenever anybody brings up bike weight I always remember a friend of mine who's into road biking.
He and another guy were talking about whether to upgrade to a lighter carbon fiber bike frame. The other guy said "That will save you 10 pounds!" to which my friend said "Yeah, but it's a lot cheaper if, instead of spending thousands on a new bike frame, I just lose 10 pounds from my butt."
Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Wombat" Innertubes: Street or offroad riding? Street or offroad tires?
I swear by slime-filled tubes. A little heavier, sure, but have saved me lots of trouble and stranding.
Hybrid tires - inner tubes for off road since even riding on the road the terrain's not much different ;)
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Originally posted Tuesday, May 16, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "mrz"
Quoted from "Wombat"
I swear by slime-filled tubes. A little heavier, sure, but have saved me lots of trouble and stranding.
<bike weight story>
Yes, very true, but the thing about adding weight to your wheels is that it adds to rotational inertia, and can make it feel harder to pedal. Something like 1oz of wheel weight 7oz of frame weight.
Originally posted Wednesday, May 17, 2006 (6 years ago)
Got another question out there. How do you clean your chain and gears? When I had a hose handy I would spray everything down then relube it, but I unfortunately don't have a hose handy.
Any thoughts on chain/gear lube? I used to use 3 in 1 oil but saw this stuff and thought it might be better (wet or dry)
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Originally posted Wednesday, May 17, 2006 (6 years ago)
Water alone isn't going to do it. You need a degreaser to actually get your chain clean. Actual chain cleaners work best. I personally use some solvent and a tooth brush, but there are a variety of little devices out there.
Wet or dry depends a lot on your environment. Out here in CO, dry lube (which is usually a wax) works best, because wet lubes dry out in the low humidity. But dry lube shaves off over time/use. Wet lube works well in humid environments, but you're at greater risk of staining pant legs and whatnot with the grease.
Originally posted Wednesday, May 17, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Air" Got another question out there. How do you clean your chain and gears? When I had a hose handy I would spray everything down then relube it, but I unfortunately don't have a hose handy.
Any thoughts on chain/gear lube? I used to use 3 in 1 oil but saw this stuff and thought it might be better (wet or dry)
Another thing you need to look out for in using water is that it can actually drive dirt into places you don't want dirt, like unsealed bearings or the shaft sleeves in the rear deraileurs. Most LBS' have this natural chain cleaner solvent which is supposedly okedokee for the environment. I've found it to work terrific in my chain cleaner. Chain cleaners are well worth the investment. That and a chain ring brush that you can use to get between all of your chain rings and get out the grit you can't reach.
I use a wet sealant, but it is silicone, and I only need to use a few drips each time I ride. My chain is never wet enough to the touch to stain anything. Plus it keeps down on the dirt collection.
Originally posted Wednesday, May 17, 2006 (6 years ago)
I'm trying to decide between the wet and dry. NY's usually humid, I don't mind riding in the rain, though most of the time it'll probably be dryish out. I like the idea of the dry I think so that if it washes out I can just put more on. Is that ice wax a liquid? Do you just put a few drops on and run the chain a few times or is it more involved?
I'd use the hose to blast out all the dirt between the gears in the back and it would get between 80-90 off the chain. Not all the grease would come off but enough that it wouldn't grind. I would ride in mud a lot (though not much mud in the city).
Good point Cheeta - I used to not be too concerned about it since if I really cleaned the hell out of it it would just go back to the dirt the next day.
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Originally posted Wednesday, May 17, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Air" How long does it take for your ass to stop feeling like Eff snuck up behind you with a broomstick?
A few years ago I rode my bike across Wisconsin. It was something like 550 miles over seven days. I then returned home to my wife and ... uh oh, no stiffies. None. At all. Two months later I go see a urologist and he warned me about the damage that bike riding can do. So I went to a bike shop and got recommendations on saddles. I got a hard saddle with a long, skinny nose and a slit down the middle. The slit down the middle causes my cheeks to be the pressure points (which is one of the things they're there for) and the narrow nose means that there's almost no pressure right around my crotch. This saddle is MUCH more comfortable than my old saddle. Plus, after I come back from a ride I can do other things that I enjoy. :wink:
Originally posted Wednesday, May 17, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "ShagBaby"
Quoted from "Air" How long does it take for your ass to stop feeling like Eff snuck up behind you with a broomstick?
A few years ago I rode my bike across Wisconsin. It was something like 550 miles over seven days. I then returned home to my wife and ... uh oh, no stiffies. None. At all. Two months later I go see a urologist and he warned me about the damage that bike riding can do. So I went to a bike shop and got recommendations on saddles. I got a hard saddle with a long, skinny nose and a slit down the middle. The slit down the middle causes my cheeks to be the pressure points (which is one of the things they're there for) and the narrow nose means that there's almost no pressure right around my crotch. This saddle is MUCH more comfortable than my old saddle. Plus, after I come back from a ride I can do other things that I enjoy. :wink:
:o :o
Can you post a picture? What type of seat did you have before? Roadbike or mountainbike? I have a thick gel seat and big ass ;) I don't feel it as much the middle (except for where I missed hopping off :oops: ) but on the inside of each cheek (that sounds like where it should be according to your description). I also realized that the seat was angled back (so that pointy spot was pointed up) - fixed that first thing when I got back!
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Originally posted Wednesday, May 17, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Deacon Jones" Have any of you ever tried rowing bikes ?
Since the bigger leg muscles are used to make the bike go forward, wouldn't they go faster than a traditionnal pedalling bike ?
I fail to see why you would think that. You're already using the right leg muscles to pedal a standard bike, and it's ridiculously efficient. The crappiest setup you can come up with will still have over 80 efficiency, and the Olympic track bikes have something like 99.9 .
Plus, rowing only converts energy in half-cycle bursts, you have to pull, & return - the return is lost energy. On a standard pedalbike, you always have a leg exerting thrust - and if you're clipped in and riding correctly, the opposite leg is pulling up simultaneously for even more power.
Originally posted Thursday, May 18, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Wombat" I fail to see why you would think that. You're already using the right leg muscles to pedal a standard bike, and it's ridiculously efficient.
The rowing bike also uses the arms and abdominal muscles. If you compare a pedal boat to a row boat, the row boat usually goes faster.
Chris Boardman's olympic record is of 56.375kph (35.029801 mph) he established it in 1996.
This site advertises that the rowing bikes they sell are capable of 30 mph which is pretty close to Boardman's Olympic record. Consider that they aren't made from space age materials like the Olympic bikes.
Originally posted Thursday, May 18, 2006 (6 years ago)
I swear, you've got "posting without understanding what you're quoting" down to an artform.
Quoted from "Deacon Jones"
The rowing bike also uses the arms and abdominal muscles. If you compare a pedal boat to a row boat, the row boat usually goes faster.
And if you compare running to swimming, you'll realize that you have no logical cohesion.
Quoted from "Deacon Jones" Chris Boardman's olympic record is of 56.375kph (35.029801 mph) he established it in 1996.
You have no idea what you're saying. Boardman holds the Hour Record. That's the max distance covered in an hour - a test of strength and endurance. So he sustained an average of 35mph for exactly an hour (damn that would hurt). 35mph is not an impressive speed for a moment or two - I've seen your average road biker do that in a parking lot. (BTW, the speed record belongs to recumbants, 80mph ).
Quoted from "Deacon Jones" This site advertises that the rowing bikes they sell are capable of 30 mph which is pretty close to Boardman's Olympic record. Consider that they aren't made from space age materials like the Olympic bikes.
30mph? That's low for a road bike. My 5 year old mountain bike will do that, knobbies and all. I've broken 30/35mph on downgrades - it's just aluminum and wheels, man, nothing fancy, and it's not made for speed like a road bike.
Originally posted Thursday, May 18, 2006 (6 years ago)
I've never tried a rowing bike but they look like they'd be difficult to control. I'd be very nervous riding one of those around on a road with heavy traffic.
There was a bunch of people riding recumbant bikes on my Wisconsin trip; my brother was among them. Recumbants seem to be more complicated than standard bikes. My completely unscientific observation at the time was that recumbants had more mechanical problems than standard bikes. Also, the recumbants just don't seem to climb as well. That's probably because they're heavier and because the rider's position is less efficient. On a standard bike, if you're clipped in, each leg can exert considerable force over the entire 360 degree revolution. I don't think that's possible on a recumbant. Also, I've heard it said that recumbants are LESS comfortable on long rides because you can't change your position. On a road bike you can use the bars to sit up straight and the drops to bend over more and you can even stand up.
Anyway, before you drop some serious bucks on a recumbant or rowing bike, try a new saddle. It worked for me.
Originally posted Thursday, May 18, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "Air" How long does it take for your ass to stop feeling like Eff snuck up behind you with a broomstick?
Heh heh heh, that will take about a week or two depending on how much you ride. I think it took me about 2 and a half weeks (riding 3x a week) to get to the point where I was okay.
Its a resistance thing. The more you ride, the less it will be a problem.
Man, the more I read this thread, the more I wish I handn't put my bike up for sale. . . oh well. That is what a bonus is for isn't it?
Originally posted Thursday, May 18, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "ShagBaby" Anyway, before you drop some serious bucks on a recumbant or rowing bike, try a new saddle. It worked for me.
I would get a recumbant if I hit the lotto and want a variety of bikes ;) My next one will be a folding bike so I don't have to lock it up anywhere!
Could you post pics of your old saddle and new one or similar ones online? I think I've seen the type of seats on road bikes but not mountain bikes. Thanks!
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Originally posted Thursday, May 18, 2006 (6 years ago)
Quoted from "ShagBaby" Recumbants seem to be more complicated than standard bikes. My completely unscientific observation at the time was that recumbants had more mechanical problems than standard bikes. Also, the recumbants just don't seem to climb as well. That's probably because they're heavier and because the rider's position is less efficient. On a standard bike, if you're clipped in, each leg can exert considerable force over the entire 360 degree revolution. I don't think that's possible on a recumbant.
Recumbants are actually more efficient than uprights because they present a smaller profile for air resistance. Your do get the 360 degrees of force on a recumbant, but they generally suck going uphill because the rider cannot use his weight to assist the climb.
Originally posted Thursday, May 18, 2006 (6 years ago)
I don't think they make my old saddle any more. It was, quite literally, a huge pain in the ass. The highest point on the saddle was the line down the middle. At the end of my Wisconsin ride I really did feel as if someone had had his way with me with a broomstick.
On today's saddles the line down the middle is the LOWEST part of the saddle. The points at the buttcheeks are the highest. That's where you want the pressure. Don't get a gel-filled saddle that'll conform to your contors. You want something that will RESIST conforming so that your buttcheeks remain the pressure points.
Any bike shop will have saddles like these. Once you see one you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. While you're in the bike shop get some padded bicycle shorts. They practically eliminate the chafing, at least over short distances. Put a pair of baggy shorts over them with white socks, black shoes and a cycling shirt and you'll look HAWT on the dance floor! One benifit of the cycling shirt is that it draws the sweat away from your body. So, while you're dancing, the outside of your shirt will get all sweaty but you'll feel nice and dry.
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Nope, not really. At least mine isn't a permanent fixture, it uses velcro straps to go through your helmet venting, and has little rubber feet to stop it from sliding. It's also top-mounted, not front. I'm pretty sure it would break away in case of any real impact. And the only way it would be in the path of direct impact would be if I landed straight down on the top of my head.
Ew, AA's wouldn't last very long. I've got Cs, and the head unit uses a PWM scheme to reduce the brightness for battery life. Also, those 12V lights can be overdriven safely, so getting extra cells to bring you up to 13.2V means that you'll be brighter, and even if voltage degrades you're still going to be over 12V.
Air: your battery packs: NiCd or NiMH? It might be worth considering if it's the latter.
In an accident, I would think (depending on the light) that at the very least, glass or plastic flying in one's eyes or embedding in one's scalp would be an issue.
Thanks!
I think NiCD but I'll have to go down and dig them up - I remember I had little LED resistors that I would hook them up to completely discharge them before charging. I like the idea of turning one of my water bottle holders into a huge battery pack even with C's or D's. Should be fairly water resistant too.
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Any preferences on inner tubes? Thickness?
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Nope, not really. It would have to be quite an accident to get that debris headed towards your face (or vice versa). The directions are all wrong. I'd be more worried about hitting anything handlebar mounted with my face/body (as I've done).
Innertubes: Street or offroad riding? Street or offroad tires?
I swear by slime-filled tubes. A little heavier, sure, but have saved me lots of trouble and stranding.
I thought the benefit of C's and D's was higher amperage but I've noticed that rechargeable C's and D's don't have the same mAh as AA's. I think it's because AA's are in more use than C's and D's...but maybe I'm just not looking at the right suppliers.
I think the guy was using a whole whack of AA's because he could get a huge bulk pack of them cheaply at Home Depot.
If you're willing to be more creative about your battery sources, I think it's possible to put together a more convenient/longer lasting setup. Some folks were using battery packs from power tools. Those are often just packs of large capacity batteries in a case.
Heh. Whenever anybody brings up bike weight I always remember a friend of mine who's into road biking.
He and another guy were talking about whether to upgrade to a lighter carbon fiber bike frame. The other guy said "That will save you 10 pounds!" to which my friend said "Yeah, but it's a lot cheaper if, instead of spending thousands on a new bike frame, I just lose 10 pounds from my butt."
:D
Hybrid tires - inner tubes for off road since even riding on the road the terrain's not much different ;)
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Yes, very true, but the thing about adding weight to your wheels is that it adds to rotational inertia, and can make it feel harder to pedal. Something like 1oz of wheel weight 7oz of frame weight.
Got another question out there. How do you clean your chain and gears? When I had a hose handy I would spray everything down then relube it, but I unfortunately don't have a hose handy.
Any thoughts on chain/gear lube? I used to use 3 in 1 oil but saw this stuff and thought it might be better (wet or dry)
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
I'll tell you after tonight, George! My boyfriend's going to teach me how to clean & readjust my bike.
Water alone isn't going to do it. You need a degreaser to actually get your chain clean. Actual chain cleaners work best. I personally use some solvent and a tooth brush, but there are a variety of little devices out there.
Wet or dry depends a lot on your environment. Out here in CO, dry lube (which is usually a wax) works best, because wet lubes dry out in the low humidity. But dry lube shaves off over time/use. Wet lube works well in humid environments, but you're at greater risk of staining pant legs and whatnot with the grease.
Personally, I use this.
Another thing you need to look out for in using water is that it can actually drive dirt into places you don't want dirt, like unsealed bearings or the shaft sleeves in the rear deraileurs. Most LBS' have this natural chain cleaner solvent which is supposedly okedokee for the environment. I've found it to work terrific in my chain cleaner. Chain cleaners are well worth the investment. That and a chain ring brush that you can use to get between all of your chain rings and get out the grit you can't reach.
I use a wet sealant, but it is silicone, and I only need to use a few drips each time I ride. My chain is never wet enough to the touch to stain anything. Plus it keeps down on the dirt collection.
I'm trying to decide between the wet and dry. NY's usually humid, I don't mind riding in the rain, though most of the time it'll probably be dryish out. I like the idea of the dry I think so that if it washes out I can just put more on. Is that ice wax a liquid? Do you just put a few drops on and run the chain a few times or is it more involved?
I'd use the hose to blast out all the dirt between the gears in the back and it would get between 80-90 off the chain. Not all the grease would come off but enough that it wouldn't grind. I would ride in mud a lot (though not much mud in the city).
Good point Cheeta - I used to not be too concerned about it since if I really cleaned the hell out of it it would just go back to the dirt the next day.
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
How long does it take for your ass to stop feeling like Eff snuck up behind you with a broomstick?
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
A few years ago I rode my bike across Wisconsin. It was something like 550 miles over seven days. I then returned home to my wife and ... uh oh, no stiffies. None. At all. Two months later I go see a urologist and he warned me about the damage that bike riding can do. So I went to a bike shop and got recommendations on saddles. I got a hard saddle with a long, skinny nose and a slit down the middle. The slit down the middle causes my cheeks to be the pressure points (which is one of the things they're there for) and the narrow nose means that there's almost no pressure right around my crotch. This saddle is MUCH more comfortable than my old saddle. Plus, after I come back from a ride I can do other things that I enjoy. :wink:
Have any of you ever tried rowing bikes ?
http://rowingbike.free.fr/
Since the bigger leg muscles are used to make the bike go forward, wouldn't they go faster than a traditionnal pedalling bike ?
:o :o Can you post a picture? What type of seat did you have before? Roadbike or mountainbike? I have a thick gel seat and big ass ;) I don't feel it as much the middle (except for where I missed hopping off :oops: ) but on the inside of each cheek (that sounds like where it should be according to your description). I also realized that the seat was angled back (so that pointy spot was pointed up) - fixed that first thing when I got back!
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
I fail to see why you would think that. You're already using the right leg muscles to pedal a standard bike, and it's ridiculously efficient. The crappiest setup you can come up with will still have over 80 efficiency, and the Olympic track bikes have something like 99.9 .
Plus, rowing only converts energy in half-cycle bursts, you have to pull, & return - the return is lost energy. On a standard pedalbike, you always have a leg exerting thrust - and if you're clipped in and riding correctly, the opposite leg is pulling up simultaneously for even more power.
These are pretty cool though:
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
The rowing bike also uses the arms and abdominal muscles. If you compare a pedal boat to a row boat, the row boat usually goes faster.
The world record for a pedal bike is: 68.72 mph but these are the covered aerodynamic ones:
Chris Boardman's olympic record is of 56.375kph (35.029801 mph) he established it in 1996.
This site advertises that the rowing bikes they sell are capable of 30 mph which is pretty close to Boardman's Olympic record. Consider that they aren't made from space age materials like the Olympic bikes.
I swear, you've got "posting without understanding what you're quoting" down to an artform.
And if you compare running to swimming, you'll realize that you have no logical cohesion.
You have no idea what you're saying. Boardman holds the Hour Record. That's the max distance covered in an hour - a test of strength and endurance. So he sustained an average of 35mph for exactly an hour (damn that would hurt). 35mph is not an impressive speed for a moment or two - I've seen your average road biker do that in a parking lot. (BTW, the speed record belongs to recumbants, 80mph ).
30mph? That's low for a road bike. My 5 year old mountain bike will do that, knobbies and all. I've broken 30/35mph on downgrades - it's just aluminum and wheels, man, nothing fancy, and it's not made for speed like a road bike.
I've never tried a rowing bike but they look like they'd be difficult to control. I'd be very nervous riding one of those around on a road with heavy traffic.
There was a bunch of people riding recumbant bikes on my Wisconsin trip; my brother was among them. Recumbants seem to be more complicated than standard bikes. My completely unscientific observation at the time was that recumbants had more mechanical problems than standard bikes. Also, the recumbants just don't seem to climb as well. That's probably because they're heavier and because the rider's position is less efficient. On a standard bike, if you're clipped in, each leg can exert considerable force over the entire 360 degree revolution. I don't think that's possible on a recumbant. Also, I've heard it said that recumbants are LESS comfortable on long rides because you can't change your position. On a road bike you can use the bars to sit up straight and the drops to bend over more and you can even stand up.
Anyway, before you drop some serious bucks on a recumbant or rowing bike, try a new saddle. It worked for me.
Heh heh heh, that will take about a week or two depending on how much you ride. I think it took me about 2 and a half weeks (riding 3x a week) to get to the point where I was okay.
Its a resistance thing. The more you ride, the less it will be a problem.
Man, the more I read this thread, the more I wish I handn't put my bike up for sale. . . oh well. That is what a bonus is for isn't it?
I would get a recumbant if I hit the lotto and want a variety of bikes ;) My next one will be a folding bike so I don't have to lock it up anywhere!
Could you post pics of your old saddle and new one or similar ones online? I think I've seen the type of seats on road bikes but not mountain bikes. Thanks!
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
Recumbants are actually more efficient than uprights because they present a smaller profile for air resistance. Your do get the 360 degrees of force on a recumbant, but they generally suck going uphill because the rider cannot use his weight to assist the climb.
I don't think they make my old saddle any more. It was, quite literally, a huge pain in the ass. The highest point on the saddle was the line down the middle. At the end of my Wisconsin ride I really did feel as if someone had had his way with me with a broomstick.
On today's saddles the line down the middle is the LOWEST part of the saddle. The points at the buttcheeks are the highest. That's where you want the pressure. Don't get a gel-filled saddle that'll conform to your contors. You want something that will RESIST conforming so that your buttcheeks remain the pressure points.
Any bike shop will have saddles like these. Once you see one you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. While you're in the bike shop get some padded bicycle shorts. They practically eliminate the chafing, at least over short distances. Put a pair of baggy shorts over them with white socks, black shoes and a cycling shirt and you'll look HAWT on the dance floor! One benifit of the cycling shirt is that it draws the sweat away from your body. So, while you're dancing, the outside of your shirt will get all sweaty but you'll feel nice and dry.
Was your bike a roadie or mountain bike? I've seen that type for road bikes but for mountain bikes with all the bumps on a trail...
And even on my quickie ride yesterday I wound up off the pavement a few times (people, mud, moving cars on the walkway :o ).
Do you know how awkward it is to have a political argument with a naked man?
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